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Casanova, Hippie Pizza and a Sunset

Today I declared a strike on me doing anything or attempting to do anything in Goa. At noon I left the hotel in a sundress (rebel!) and walked to Cafe Coffee Day to have an Americano and maybe read the paper. The paper was very informative. Goa was closed yesterday? No way I didn't notice … Read more

Petrol Hikes, Mystery Fish and Forts

Today the price of petrol went up and everywhere that was previously open went on strike and closed. Leaving literally nothing open but a few stalwart tourist cantinas scattered across all of North Goa. My brilliant plan for the day was to start at the Northernmost point of Goa at Tiracol Fort and work my … Read more

Jesus, Mary, and Kingfish Curry

Santana the cabana boy is now my best friend providing me with the facts of his life story in exchange for my 100 rupees per day chair rental. Business at the beach is slow and he feels I need protecting from all the possible dangers the sandy shore of Candolim Beach, Goa could wash up … Read more

Timeshares, Black Pepper and Lord Manguesh

Today I caused a scene in the lobby of the Phoenix Park Inn Resort. At the end of it I was storming out with my luggage and they were offering me everything free that pissed me off in the first place – but it was too little too late. Ironically, the only reason I am … Read more

Catholic Churches and Closed Paradise

Someone closed paradise and forgot to do a final check of the aisles. As there are a few of us left in this fishbowl swimming in circles between the hotel and beach with no where else to go. I tried to go to three recommended restaurants tonight – not because I wanted to go to … Read more

Beaches, Bangles and Vindaloo

So the thing about Goa now is it is off-season. The benefit – no crowds and theoretically lower prices. The downside – I am a beacon of white light illuminating everywhere I traverse. My entry onto Candolim Beach started a turf war between the cabana man and the jewelry seller ladies over my non-existent American … Read more

Taxis, Mahalaxmi and Gandhi

As I gazed out the window over the waters of Goa ignoring the jerky brake technique of my driver – trying to find some semblance of my inner flow I lost at exactly 11:11 am this morning and not get whiplash – I realized something. Mumbai has no cows. And that is what is wrong … Read more

Bus Stops, Coffee and Mangos

At 6am this morning I called Cafe Coffee Day (India's Starbucks) in Hotel Ginger and ordered an Americano and a chocolate doughnut. Out of doughnuts a "Brownie" resembling a piece of cake was delivered to my room along with the Americano – or what I thought was an Americano until I took a sip. Coffee … Read more

Nasik Indian Wine Country

The first wine grapevine to come to India was a Sauvignon Blanc smuggled in a suitcase past Indian customs from France in 1996. Sula Winery founder had five acres of land he inherited from his father, a dream and some serious tenacity – the first crop for vintage was 1999 and a new industry for … Read more